River Fowey Estuary Car Tour

RIVER FOWEY ESTUARY CAR TOUR OF CELTIC CHRISTIAN SITES

Each of the sites described on this car tour are places where Celtic Christians lived and worshipped. The route can be done as a prayerful pilgrimage, lingering at each site to engage with God and His presence. Allow five hours or so if you want to do this in one go, possibly more if you want to really take your time in each place. Or even split over a couple of days to take more time.

Alternatively, it can be a day trip visiting the Celtic sites but also enjoying some of the beautiful scenery, local towns, and yummy eateries. The choice is yours.

I’ve concentrated on those sites adjacent to the actual River Fowey but anyone looking at a map will see there are many other places beginning with ‘lan’ (meaning holy place in Cornish) just a bit further away from the river. Some of these will be explored separately.

View across St Austell Bay from Lansallos Churchyard (photo)

Lansallos church (photo)

I suggest you use the map as a guide and decide which end of the route to start from. Fowey is one beginning, alternatively you can start at Polruan. {Details in brackets are if you’d like to enjoy some of the scenery and other points of interest along the way}.

I’m starting the tour in POLRUAN. You can catch the Bodinnick Car Ferry from Fowey over to Polruan.

Bodinnick Car Ferry (Photo)

SITE ONE

ST SAVIOUR’S CHAPEL, POLRUAN: A PLACE OF OIL AND HOLINESS

St Saviour's Chapel ruins, looking out to St Austell Bay (photo)

The remains of this ancient chapel can still be seen perched on the cliff top above Polruan. One wall stands proud, visible from both Fowey and Polruan. A Celtic monk lived here but not much is known about them except that they lit a lamp to guide ships into safe harbour and acted as a lookout and watchman.

The site of the chapel is glorious. One way you look out across St Austell Bay to the horizon uninterrupted, exposed to the south westerly winds. The other direction surveys the Fowey Estuary. Today the town of Fowey dominates the view, but you can see where Pont creek and Mixtow Pill branch off and into the distance towards Golant. The sites of other Celtic saints are visible or tantalising just out of view.

Fowey town and the River Fowey looking inland towards Golant (photo1), St Fimarrus Church, Fowey (photo2)

Look across from St Saviours to the other shore and you will see a small bay. This is Ready Money Cove. The Saints Way leads down the wooded cleaved valley which leads down to the cove and the valley can be clearly seen from St Saviours. It’s thought the very earliest Celtic monk possibly settled by a spring in this valley called Lawhyre. The bedrock path from the cove which is The Saints Way certainly feels ancient. You can see ruts caused by the centuries of carts being pulled up this route. As you walk, it’s like stepping back in time. There’s no indication you are next to a bustling town. Your pace slows and peace surrounds you.

Lawhyre Valley and Ready Money Cove (photo)

From St Saviours you look across to Fowey town, where Fimbarrus established a prayer community. Further round the estuary are many of the other sites which we visit on this pilgrimage.

Whilst praying up at St Saviour’s Chapel the friend I was with saw this vision.

I saw a huge angel there. It was very tall but wore simple type clothing. It looked like his robe was off-white with a tint of brown. He seemed to be guarding the place spiritually.

I then saw that there was a circle of golden oil around the place in front of the standing wall, as I looked towards Fowey. I felt Jesus say that this oil would ignite in the future and it would be a place of holiness to the Lord.

I love it when God reveals what is going on in the Spirit to people who can see. So, there’s still a deposit remaining on this site with an angel on guard and agreement in prayer for this oil to be reignited.

{Polruan is a lovely quaint Cornish fishing village, now geared up for tourists. From the carpark by St Saviour’s you can walk down the winding streets into the town, enjoying the ambiance of this ancient place. There are several places to eat down on the quay. If you want to take in Fowey at the same time, there is a foot ferry crossing to the main town quay and a few strides from St Fimbarrus church, another site on the tour. Fowey is packed with independent shops, winding streets, quaint nooks, and crannies. It is also larger than Polruan and has many places to eat to suit all budgets. You get beautiful views of the river from here and can hire boats. If you hire a boat you can visit some of the sites on this tour from the river itself, such as Golant, St Cadix, St Winnow and Lanteglos-on-Fowey but you will need to check it is high tide to have such an adventure.}

From Polruan we drive to Lanteglos-on-Fowey, shown on maps as Churchtown.

SITE TWO

LANTEGLOS-ON-FOWEY: REVELATION, EQUIPPING AND JOY

This church is hidden down a leafy lane. It can be approached by car and accessed opposite Churchtown Farm. Alternatively, you can walk up an ancient path from the creek of Pont on the River Fowey. By doing this you are walking literally, in the footsteps of the monk who founded this site.

There are two ancient Celtic crosses in the graveyard, both very different from each other but striking. You can still see that the church was built on a raised circular site which is typical of the Celtic ‘lan’ or holy settlement.

Once inside the church I find I’m immediately worshipping. It’s as though the praise is pulled out of me and I’m singing ‘How Great Thou Art’ and ‘Jesus Joy of Man’s Desiring’. The joy which fills my heart is tangible and a clear indication of the presence of God in this place. I sense JOY is one of the deposits here.

As I’m worshipping, I sense several red angels around me and deep peace descends. I’m kneeling low, humbling myself before God. In my seer realm, I can ‘see’ that I’m kneeling at Jesus’ feet with my hands on his feet, aware of my human frailty. He stretches out his hand and places it on my head. An orb of light infuses my mind from his hand, and I feel the power of God. As this is happening, I’m also aware there’s an angel behind me comforting me and placing strong armour on my back.

I love these encounters with Jesus, his Holy Spirit, and the angels of God. It happens so many times at these ancient sites and I’m convinced that anyone visiting with an open heart will also encounter Jesus.

The friend who came with us had the following experiences. She had also been with me at Culbone Chapel on Exmoor where Bueno lived for a while.

I felt that Bueno had been here at Lanteglos as he was friends with the Celtic saint who lived here but also that the places were connected in the spiritual realm.

This is perfectly possible as the monks who were ‘peregrinus’ did travel widely and often knew each other, visiting as friends but also to share their spiritual lives. In an encounter called Worshipping Warfare, I saw spiritual connections geographically. You can click over and read more about it.

My friend continues,

I saw eagles flying. The eagles were of fire and flying around keeping the portal open. I also saw a huge warrior angel there dressed in full battle armour.

I felt God saying that it is a place of REVELATION - a place where STRATEGIES are given from heaven and that it is a place of "EQUIPPING" for His children. It is like a military outpost where His children are trained and have encounters with Him to release heavenly strategies for the battle and they are also given training directly by the Holy Spirit.

{One of the lovely things to do from Lanteglos-on-Fowey is walk along the ancient track leading from the church down to the River Fowey. It’s part of the longer Hall Walk which is circular walk around Fowey and Polruan. It takes you through the wooded valley with its small stream which would have been familiar to the monks who lived on this site and was probably the route they used themselves when going down to the river.

If you enjoy walking there is a circular scenic coastal walk near Lanteglos, called Lantic Bay. The National Trust own this part of the coastline and the views across St Austell Bay are magnificent. Lantic Bay beach is also delightful but a very steep walk down and back up.}

SITE THREE: ST CADIX, ST CYRIC’S CREEK: PROFOUND PEACE

St Cadix is a beautiful location down on St Cyric’s Creek, an offshoot from Penpol Creek on the River Fowey. There is a public footpath down an ancient lane. It now leads to a private house, but the footpath goes across the gravel drive, between two small triangular pillars to the Creekside. The grassy banks belong to the house but at low tide you can walk on the shingly mud and access the creek.

This is a place of significant peace where you want to linger and pray. For over a thousand years there was a spiritual settlement here, founded by Celtic monks and then becoming a small monastery which only disbanded with the dissolution of the monasteries under Henry VIII. The place feels permeated by prayer. There’s a holy stillness and peace which is heavy in the atmosphere and more than just the beauty of the natural surroundings. Angels have been experienced here too.

Again, the friend who was with me had a spiritual encounter:

I saw white horses running with the waves as the tide came into the creek - the horses were angels and I heard the words "wave riders".

This vision links with similar ones others have had of angels riding on white horses crossing over from Ireland and Wales to Cornwall before going onto France to do God’s bidding. The full revelation of why they are coming into St Cadix is still to be revealed.

{With St Cadix and St Cyric’s Creek, it’s lovely to approach it by boat. This must be done at high tide because of the depth of the water. The creek is situated off Penpol Creek. It is a beautiful and peaceful river trip, one of our favourites as it’s less busy than the main river. Boats can be hired from Fowey or canoes from Golant. You can access the creek on the high tide and really enjoy the peace of God’s presence.}

SITE FOUR: ST VEEP: DEEP REST, PEACE- HEALING FOR BROKEN HEARTS

St Veep and St Cadix are a very short distance apart from each other and a short, but steep walk across three fields links them. It’s not known if they were occupied concurrently but it is very likely to be the case. Also, St Sampson at Golant was a short boat trip away too.

I love to visit St Veep and it is swiftly becoming one of my favourite local sites. The church is usually open and feels very ancient. But the peace envelops you the moment you enter the churchyard. It settles like a hush over you. I love it.

When I’m in this church a deep rest fills me. I want to stop, to linger, just to be in God’s presence. On this occasion I’m praying down by the altar, stilling myself to enter deeply into God’s rest.

I find myself in a vision where I see a small arched gothic oak door inset in a stone arch. It is closed initially but I watch as a monk comes and opens it inward. He stoops to enter, then turns and speaks to me. ‘You may follow’. He stretches out a hand to me, ‘Come sister.’ So I follow him through the doorway.

I expect to find myself in a tunnel so am surprised that we are outdoors walking through a shallow stream on steppingstones. As we cross the stream becomes a river and the steppingstones become large, like at Tarr Steps. I instinctively know it is an ancient route.

The monk is walking ahead of me and I ask him where we are going, ‘to the mountaintop’ he replies. I’m puzzled as I can’t see any hills let alone mountains.

Ahead of me I watch the monk as he strides across the stones which are now under water. He goes deeper and deeper into the water and is soon submerged, his robes floating out on the water. I’m confused and stop and wait. Then his hand comes up out of the water and takes mine. I too then start walking down into the water, walking on a flight of steps under the water.

And suddenly, there we are on a mountain top, looking down from a great height! A very deep peace and sense of rest settles all over me and I hear that the place I’m at is called ‘Eyrie’s Rest’, that is a place for eagles (prophets) to rest. So, I do!

Meanwhile my friend is also encountering God.

I felt God say that "St Veep was a man who would weep". I heard a violin playing and it was a song of comfort for bereft and for the wounded souls.

I heard Jesus say that "Those who truly seek Me in this place will encounter the God of All Comfort". I then saw oil flowing from a little font. The oil never stopped flowing and I heard Him say that this was His balm of Gilead, which flows to comfort those who mourn and to bind up the broken hearted, broken souls.

I saw an angel standing not far from the bell tower. The angel was dressed in a white robe with a yellow/gold sash. He also had a bottle in his hand, and he was collecting the tears of the broken hearted and when they hit the bottle the tears turned into liquid gold oil.

{St Veep is just a short drive from Lerryn, a picturesque village on the River Fowey. It has a good local shop which provides takeaways food for picnics on the village green which is right by the river. You can sit and watch the tide coming in and going out, cross to the other side at low tide via steppingstones and walk along both sides of the river.

There is a lovely walk from Lerryn down to St Winnow, another place on our tour. It takes you through woodland and you pass Ethy Rock, supposedly the inspiration for Wind in the Willows by Kenneth Grahame. The walk is several miles long, so allow plenty of time. You can pick up refreshments in St Winnow at weekends at Angie’s van. She serves delicious burgers made using meat produced on the farm, as well as ice-creams and drinks. It’s a good stop off before doing the return walk.

There is a circular route, returning via footpaths across Tregays Farm and the National Trust land surrounding Ethy House but check the map before setting off.

For the adventurous, if you stay on the same side of the river as the shop, you can walk along to Cliff and then up to St Veep along winding lanes.}

SITE FIVE: ST WINNOW: HEALING

Set in an idyllic setting right on the banks of the River Fowey, St Winnow must be one of the most stunning locations of any church in the country.

The original ‘lan’ outlay is visible, a raised slightly circular enclosure which is now the graveyard.

Again, there’s a deep and reverent hush and peace in this place, evident even on entering the graveyard. Down by the river are rocks where I often pray and sense God very near. It looks across to Lantyan, most likely another ‘lan’ or holy place and a short walk from St Sampson’s at Golant. It’s most likely the monks met for fellowship and to hear each other’s confessions.

Again, my friend had an encounter when in the church.

I felt God say that it was place of healing and resurrection. Felt Him say that it also a place of joy.

Each of the Celtic monks seemed to have special attributes. For some it was a healing anointing, or miracles, deliverance from demons or authority over evil spiritual places. So, it’s not beyond belief that the original portal at St Winnow is one of healing which God wants to restore and reopen.

{St Winnow is so picturesque it’s worth walking through the churchyard and down to the tiny quay. You can see both ways up the river and across to Lantyan woods. In the past when the Queen visited Cornwall on the royal train, it would berth overnight on the bank opposite to St Winnow because the view is so beautiful. It’s worth lingering on the bank and praying, just as the Christians have done before us.

As mentioned, you can walk to Lerryn from here, through lovely woodlands and adjacent to the river.}

SITE SIX: St SAMPSON’S CHURCH, GOLANT: WORSHIP AND SANCTUARY

St Sampson’s has long been my favourite place to go to when I need to pull aside with God. I walk into the church and peace envelops me like the wings of an angel. I receive revelation, answers to questions, anxieties settle, and I become more centred on Jesus. It’s a beautiful place, full of God and you can feel that the place has been saturated by over 1500 years of prayer and worship.

You can read more about encounters here by clicking on links to St Sampson’s. On the day we were compiling the tour, the church was still closed sadly, due to Covid-19 restrictions. It’s still worth visiting to sit in the churchyard and pray, looking down over the River Fowey. It’s an incredibly stunning location.

{St Sampson’s sits above the lovely river side village of Golant. It’s worth walking or driving down the steep hill into the village. There’s a pub serving food by the river and a boat club which hires out canoes and serves tea and cake. Walk along the road to the quay at the end where there is a pretty converted boathouse. Sitting here you look across to Penpol Creek where St Cadix is situated. Sampson also had a cave here looking up the creek but it’s now difficult and dangerous to access due to the railway. It’s just a short boat distance between Golant and St Cadix.}

SITE SEVEN: ST FIMBARRUS CHURCH, FOWEY

The church sites right in the centre of the town in a prominent position by the quay. It’s not clear which saint established the community here, but it would have been the end of the journey for monks using The Saints Way. They came to Fowey to get transport across to France but obviously, by the indications of the sites on this tour, some decided to settle along the banks of the river and establish prayer communities here.

There are two possibilities for the name Fimbarrus

1: Finnbarr, Irish abbot from Cork 606.

He loved solitude of hills and lapping water under high crags. Miracles: a visitor asked for proof of God. They were sitting under hazel trees. Immediately the catkins turned to nuts and fell at their feet. Another time Jesus lifted Finnbarr by the right hand to see the glory of heaven. From then on, his hand blazed with light and he had to wear gloves. He travelled to the Outer Hebrides and founded a monastic centre on Barra.

2: Barry son of Brychan and uncle to Cadoc 

St Fimbarrus will be covered later.

{Fowey is definitely a place to explore. It’s an ancient fishing town, which grew up on the banks of the river and was a busy port going right back to Celtic times. It’s here the monks boarded boats for the continent and it’s the end of The Saints Way, a long-distance footpath which links the North and South coasts of Cornwall. The monks and traders used this route to avoid the treacherous waters of Land’s End. It is about 27 miles long and goes through many sites associated with the Celtic saints.

Fowey is also quite a ‘foodie’ place with independent restaurants, pubs, cafes, and takeaways. Local crab is a speciality. There are also many boutiques, independent shops, and galleries. It’s a place to wander enjoy and linger. It also holds a Literature Festival based around Daphne Du Maurier who lived in the town and in summer there’s a sailing Regatta. At Christmas time there’s a wonderful Christmas food and craft market.}